While reading the first 128 pages
of Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour
this weekend, I let my pen and my post-it notes fly. Bourdain covered some
serious ground in the first half of A
Cook’s Tour and my untamed responses followed suit. Though Bourdain worked
through multiple countries, foods, and provoking statements in the first half
of A Cook’s Tour, I found a common
thread in his tendency to discuss nationalism in each place he visited.
Bourdain’s sometimes brief, but
often provoking discussions of national values and patriotism in each place he
visited resonated with me because I struggle to define these things for myself.
Like Nguyen ties her identity conflict to food in Stealing Buddha’s Dinner and Jane Kramer links her writing
strategies to cooking in “The Reporter’s Kitchen,” I find it helpful for
Bourdain to connect food with nationalism in A Cook’s Tour. Somehow, patriotism, or a lack thereof, seems easier
to digest with food.
Bourdain
begins his quest for the “perfect meal” in Portugal and he notices, after
dining on pork, pork, and more pork, that a few elements are missing from the
American food culture. While in Portugal, he realized nostalgia for big groups
that eat together, family, resistance to change food that’s already good, the
“casual cruelty that comes with living close to your food,” and a no-waste
policy. These things, according to Bourdain, are missing from the dining
experience in the United States.
I think Bourdain hit the nail on the head. I
often wish I knew how to use every part of every ingredient I cook with. Last
night, I made soup with vegetables from a community garden and I realized I had no idea what to do with the stalks and leaves of the
turnips and beets I put in the soup. After chopping and tasting them, I reluctantly threw them away. I was clueless about the proper ways to use whole
vegetable parts and while this could be a result of my lack of cooking
experience, I also think it might have something to do with the food culture
here.
In tandem with my waste conflict, like Bourdain, I want to be close to my food. I dream raising chickens
someday. Often, when I say this, my boyfriend and parents laugh. They must
think I’m crazy for thinking it would be cool to live with dirty, smelly,
chickens and they could be right. I could simply be a wannabe hippie with
nostalgia for something I haven’t ever experienced before. Still, I think it
would be incredible to experience the “casual cruelty” Bourdain describes in Portugal
and understand what exactly happens to my food before it hits my plate.
I think Bourdain might argue that
the personal pressures and guilt I struggle with—namely, waste and raising
animals—must be tied to the culture I live in. While in Morocco, Bourdain
explains that many food practices are derived from important times in history.
He writes, “As the Portuguese and Spanish have adopted bacalo—a method of preserving fish for long periods—as a way to
ensure naval power, the citizens of Fez have a culinary repertoire developed
around survival, food hoarding, preservation, and self sufficiency.”
Before reading A Cook’s Tour, I hadn’t thought about food as a result of
place-specific culture. I’m still sorting through how my food practices and
gripes could be related to my history, but I think it’s important to recognize
that the tension and pride we find in food could be related to nationalism and
tradition. Linking food and nationalism, as Bourdain often does, could be a
helpful way to evaluate these feelings.
For me, nationalism can be a very dangerous thing, because love of and pride in country is so nebulous. However, pride in one's traditions and practices is very grounded. I prefer concrete to abstract. Then I know what I'm working with.
ReplyDeleteAnd you're right: we can learn so much about our histories through our food traditions and practices!
One a side note: raising chickens in urban settings is totally hip. Also, you can eat turnip and beet greens just like you do other greens such as spinach and kale. Saute them, steam, them, chop them and put them in soup!